People who play with fire...

A static sailor who abandoned his GRP boat on the side of the communal slipway had a very efficient stainless steel woodburner rigged up in the mainsaloon.  When fired up and reaching its maximum output, you had to open the mainhatch doors and release the stifling heat, it was so fierce.  Better to be too warm than too cold most say.  Maybe better to more econmical with feeding fiendish fires me thinks.  Or better still install a safer heating method. 

Captain Haddock's idea of a boat warming party!                           © Georges Remi

At 37º.1167ºN, 7.6500ºW, the winters here are far from Arctic.  But perhaps its that eternal link of romanticism and boats, that leads some to invest in a wood burner, emitting that ambient glow, even when the thermometer still reads plus Celsius.  I profess to only knowing this one boat around these shores, boasting the woodburner with its shiny inox exterior and flickering flame interior, for about 2 months of the year, the rest of the time gathering dust and taking up space during the long sweltering months of the summer.  Left in the wrong hands, it can all go hideously wrong.  Add to the fire cocktail a large dose of alcohol consumption, you have a potential disaster waiting to happen. 

One early morning, that's exactly what occured.  The owner's daughter loves to visit and to her, rightly so,  it is a cheap destination, with free accommodation at hand.  She also is quite partial to 'partying', involving  much merryment as the amber liquid flows freely.  Boating and boozing has, in my opinion always been on the high fatal list of, 'this could be the last thing you ever do'.  Alcohol related deaths involving boats are endless.  Fortunately this tale had a happier ending.  No-one perished and the numerous wooden fishing boats hauled up on the slip for repair were spared from incineration.

The boat is really going nowhere, and hadn't for years, the owner losing interest to head to the high seas, or even motor within the inland waters of the series of estuaries that make up the Ria Formosa. During one stormy night, while the skipper had jumped ship and left the country to celebrate the annual festivities, and neglecting to close the sea cocks, the boat had consequently dragged, heeled over and the engine room was flooded with the salty liquid.  I think the engine went on to become someone elses mooring, but that's another tale.

Early  one Sunday morning a few weeks ago, the early risers were to see what they thought was the normal smoke emissions from the said burner.  They were wrong.  It was instead, the beginnings of a small fire that allegedly began, not only from an unreliably unwomaned fire, but a cloth that had been wedged between chimney and wooden coachroof.  The cloth had ignited due to the excessive temperatures and before long an on board interior fire was taking hold.  By the time the occupants had realised what was going on, someone had called the 'Bombeiros' (Fire services).  

While a growing audience accumulated, the owners daughter, let's call her Chloe for arguments sake (and to prevent any libel suits), had begun fetching buckets of water, scooped up, conveniently from over the side and was dousing out the fire, with one other helping hand.  The dozens of residents meanwhile (mainly aging fishermen), were busy watching the topless Chloe, in her hung-over and frantic state put out the flames.  By the time she had realised her bare chested state and had swiftly hid her modesty, the flames were out, the firemen had turned up and the show was all but over.  Until the Maritime Police turned up and according to one, the Polícia Judiciária (equivalent of the CID) wanting to take statements and no doubt ask a lot of questions.

I'm not sure if it's worth stating the obvious moral to this tale, but my guess is everyone would, no doubt, have a lot of fun creating one. Mine would be, when cavorting with fire on a boat, best ye dress for any eventuality.

Police and Thieves

I prefer the live version by The Clash any day, (no offence to the original recording by Junior Murvin, which I am also partial to), to the cold harsh reality of what is happening more and more in this region of Portugal.  The two songs are poles apart with their musical versions, Murvin was totally outraged by Joe Strummer and his crew, claiming "They have destroyed Jah work."  Much the same can be said about our rapidly dividing society,  as many residents liken the polititians to "that murdering Government.".  The snowball effect is gaining speed.

It's sad but true, events as I am about to reveal, are becoming an all too regular occurance.  One morning, after arriving to check on my boat, run the engine, the usual weekly check-ups, I found more activity than normal around the fishing huts.

It turned out that the previous night, someone had decided it would be a great idea to steal 700 kilos of octupus, (estimated price of €2,100.00),  that were being stored overnight on a fishing boat, that was drying out on the communal slipway.  If that wasn't enough, the culprits stole a 5m fishing boat to make their get-a-way!

The outrageous news travelled fast, and soon rumours were coming back from Faro, but nothing more was forthcoming.  My guess is, the snatchers of the cephalopods had hoofed it already to Spain, selling quickly their hord and that would be the end of it.  The Polícia Marítima used the occasion to do what, it appears, they do best.

Their grand achievement of the day would be to take the 8m R.I.B out with 300hp to propel them up and down the Ria Formosa, trying to look as intimidating as possible, (wearing a Walther semi automatic on the hip helps), forgetting about legal speed limits and all the wildlife above and below the waterline they would be traumatising.  Let's face it, this was the excuse they needed to do just that and only that.  No one had the cojones to tell them they were only zooming around in the wake of the thieves, wasting time and money.

As a dark cloud loomed above this small fishing community, it was becoming clear, the thieves had won and the owner of the fishing boat was at least €2,100.00 out of pocket.

Long gone are the days I used to leave the boat and whizz off to land in the tender, leaving the mainhatch open so wide it looked like my boat was yawning.  If you don't lock, bolt, alarm or simply take with, it will grow legs.  It's almost tempting to set a trap for the thieving opportunists, they are getting so predictable!  Now that's got me thinking!!  A trussed up robber covered in tar and feathers is coming to mind as the imagination begins to flow.  Not too far from these shores, they hack off your hands for stealing.  Is that going too far in a society that is fast becoming uncivilized?

FINAL RELIEF - Day 5

I don't have to waffle on anymore with further boatyard antics as I think this video says it all...!! 

Much later on, I re-anchored in a calming breeze and hopped in the dinghy to meet friends for a well earned dinner.  On our return dinghy journey, together with my blue rinsed hair friend, the tide and wind were both against us, so we had to walk the dinghy upstream to compensate for the elements. Unfortunately the tide was also low, so we found ourselves slopping around in thigh high mud, which aided greatly to us slipping and sliding about, not to mention the odd nick or two on our feet from sharp critters or rubbish hidden in the putrid mud.  With our spirits flagging and a second attempt to reach the boat ending in another failure, we rightly decided to head back into the town of Ayamonte, to find a bar and sit out till the end of the tide, when at least, we would only have the wind against.  At least I knew my way around the boatyard and we headed directly to the tap, to wash off the oil based, slightly pongy and penetrating mud, so we would at least be accepted inside a bar.

Ayamonte is a great town and like most in Spain, the nightlife usually kicks off around 23.00.  We located a bar with relative ease and quickly ordered two capirinhas, not a Spanish but Brazlian drink, after I had spotted the famous Cachaça 55 bottle on their glass shelf.  The popular cocktail, turned out to be the best I had ever had and we promptly ordered another while watching the time.

I'm confident now, it actively helped us getting back to the boat at a slightly later time of 2.00 something in the morning. It was still an epic row back against the wind, but we made it. Ahh it's always the simple things in life appreciated and we both fell asleep with smiles on our faces.

BOATYARD- AYAMONTE - Day 4

It's Monday morning already and I'm looking forward to jet washing my boat's undercarriage, but the wait, unexpectedly, continued into the morning.  I was also told that I would be going back into the water a day early, as another boat was booked to come out.  There must have been some sort of mix up with the days and I was left feeling immensely pressured.  After calculating what I still had left to do, this was a set back, as I may have to forgo some of the jobs, and only concentrate on getting her sanded, primed and painted ready to back into the water.

Leaving the frustration of possibly not completing everything I needed to do, I had to concentrate on the best plan to do as much as possible.  I could save the cutlass bearing for another time, for example. (A cutlass bearing is a cylindrical bearing made of brass with an inner grooved rubber lining that is lubricated by the surrounding water, and supports the drive shaft, where it exits the boat.)

I decided the hull was priority and that was it.  A friend was coming down later to stay over and help, so we would get it all done in time.  That would also mean Eby's best friend Mr Bob would be staying too and even I began to feel lighter.

Preparing below the waterline for repainting can be a messy, difficult and dangerous work, so it's not for the faint hearted.  Usually the best way to rustle up any enthusiasm with anyone is for them to own a boat too and for you to have helped them when they hauled out. A perfect quid pro quo situation.  There are always numerous people who will get caught up with the romantism of boating and affirm their help even as far as the boatyard.  But in the blink of an eye they will find a limitless supply of excuses not to help you, when they find out what's really involved maintenance wise!

 

Keels cleaned, sanded and primed not to mention the 3 pairs of knickers drying nicely on the guardrail!

The hull needed seriously sanding to remove every last trace of barnacles.  We are aiming for a smooth as possible base to build up from.  The smoother the better, the faster.  Yes boating can be rather anal at times.  I handed the sander to Jen when she turned up and she got busy.  I on the other hand was to drag myself to the worse area to work on.  Directly under the boat, between the keels.  With my small angle grinder, I worked away, against gravity, against anything that comes naturally really.  It was agonizing work, but had to be done.  One sings, yells, whoops and sighs, during the arduous process and believe me, it really helps.  The other saving grace was looking forward to a hose pipe shower, (when all had gone home) and a few cold beers and tapas at our local haunt.  Sometimes it's the little things in life, that make everything else seem rosey.

Jenny working on her 'blue rinse' look!

I have seen many a boat hauled out via travelifts, trolleys and cranes, but the small fishing boat that came out and was chocked up next to me was the most interesting.  During one of the blue dusty breaks I saw the owner of the yard and a worker strip down and prepare to head for the water once more.  What are they up to now  I wondered, so I downed tools and watched and waited. 

Not walking on water!

The half walking on water was the best bit as they were merely getting wet again for another haul out, crab style.  They stuck it on a support next to me, unchocked and looking most precarious.  Good for us, there was no storm forecast from the North East!

Chock free, live dangerously!

The aquatic yard crew run the boat up the runners and in all the excitement, I think they forgot to chock the boat for safety!

BOATYARD LIVING AND ADAPTATION (cont.) - DAY 3

I felt disillusioned over the weekend as I was unable to plug into electricity and crack on with things.   Improvisation is a popular word to anyone owning a boat, so I made the best of it.  First job up I thought, was to tackle the blue line.  This operation didn't involve any power tools but what I did need was a low scaffold, where it would be safe to prep and sand and paint my new blue line.  What I ended up with was a crude improvisation.  An empty 44 gallon metal drum! I chocked it level with an assortment of pieces of wood that were in abundance just about everywhere.  It's a boatyard after all, full of interesting bits and bobs and boat wrecks, which is all generally rubbish to the untrained eye!

Now Eby, the proud ship's dog was looking forward to her daily run, but I had noticed her becoming increasingly worried about the method of getting on and off the boat.  As you can see from the photos, a ladder lashed onto the trolley was the only access up and down.  There never seemed to be a problem with us getting onto the boat.  I simply lifted Eby up under one arm and scaled the ladder while she put her front legs on my leg each time I stepped up to give her leverage and perhaps think that she was helping the situation.  However, it was not so easy on the way down.  Eby would come to the edge of the deck and look down and almost shake her head and back up, do a little dance, keeping her feet moving in a nervous moment of vertigo!  I tried to coax her sweetly, but she wasn't having any of it.  Usually we had an audience of boat workers which could have even added to the problem.  Finally I thought of a solution.  I would put her in the doggy lifejacket and carry her on up and down if need be, like a piece of hand luggage! We were thoroughly impressed with the innovation, well at least I was.  I think Eby had other thoughts on the idea!

A not so impressed Eby!

 With the problem of getting Eby onboard solved, I could get stuck into the re painting of blueline with no further worries or problems.  We had the boatyard to ourselves and Eby thoroughly enjoyed running around at her leisure, investigating every nook and cranny, the memory of the stressful descent from the boat long forgotton.

As the day came to a close, the full moon rose up, lighting up the cockpit with a soft lunar glow.  

A subtle satisfaction washed over me, in spite of no electricity, no bathroom, shower and a dog with vertigo.  We always have to make the best of what we have, and always look at what we have achieved, not what's still on the 'to do' list!

FROM PORTIMãO TO CULATRA

Ancorage at Portimão

Just after dawn

 Another fine, clear morning on the anchorage at the bay overlooking Praia Grande, Portimão and I'm setting sail for the short 36 mile hop East to the island of Culatra that lays off Faro, making up the beautiful marshland that is the Ria Formosa.  There's a trickle of a Northerly blowing and I want to catch as much of it as possible, as will probably decrease to nothing as the day develops.  As I have Lea, the ship's cat on board, it's a good idea to run ashore quickly one last time to give her a little run and a chance to dig a little hole in the sand, if she so desires.  In fact, she takes the opportunity of scaling the cliff to go exploring and it takes me slightly longer than anticipated to get hold of her again.  In true cat fashion, she thinks it's all part of some game for me to chase her.  Thing is I'm not in the mood for shimmying up cliff faces today and one swift swipe and I've swept her up in my arms and we head back to the dinghy to up anchor and make way.

With the wind gusting up to 15 knots or more, I had my work cut out for me at the helm, but when I heard the familiar sound of dolphins jetting through and up out of the water, I quickly grabbed my compact camera and started shooting.  As no self steering was connected, I had to keep one hand on the tiller and one randomly hitting the shutter release button on the camera!

There's always something exhilarating when you're amongst one of the most wonderous mammals of them all!! I never tire of their presence and on longer ocean passages, welcome their company as they are just as curious to go out of their way, to check you and your vessel out.  They'll be more than willing to give you a free display of their abilities in motion, with leaps, flips and slaps and you can also get a rare sight of baby dolphin with mother, which can only fill you with adrenaline induced joy, leaving you sensing everytime you have been witness to something remarkable.

The wind predictably dropped throughout the day, which slowed down my boat and feeling fulfilled with the day's events already, I was more than content to just go with the slow flow of a gentle Easterly for the duration of the journey.

 

Santa Maria Lighthouse on Culatra

 I chugged into the entrance and passed the distinctive lighthouse on the last approach before the short motor up to the anchorage.  There's always plenty of room at this anchorage and as I only draw 1,20M depth, I can usually slip into shallower waters and drop the hook, therefore making it a much shorter dinghy ride to reach the beach or pontoons.

Though tired from the days sail, the combination of sealife and pure air usually will leave one pleasantly weary, I put my head down and had a quick 40 winks, before going to see who was about and what was going on, on harder ground.

INTROSPECTIVE

It's been a funny old time of it recently.  In fact this summer has been not what was expected.  Advocating a most excellent example that we should, in fact, not expect anything, therefore never finding ourselves disappointed.  From the salty seas to the dry and scorched lands,  a life of diversity certainly and this year inadvertently thrown back to the land with work projects.  My dear boat and its extras took a back seat somewhat as I weighed up the pros and cons of cashing in where I could. 

The aftershocks of the recent fires, showed me another perspective.  I and a group of friends who were all involved with the disaster, decided to meet on a regular basis and share our space and thoughts and humor.  If nothing else was realized it was the appreciation of who we have in our lives and what is important and just how it all can change in the blink of an eye.

 

One of my particular points of joy!

Naturally sailing took place as and when!  The wind blew for weeks from the north, which makes an exciting sail, as you will get intermittent gusts.  I love this type of sailing as you have no time for complacency.

How can one think of selling their sailboat, when it is a point of joy?  A moment that will lift you, get the adrenline pumping and put a wide smile on your face.

They also can suddenly become the bane of one's life.  Only harbouring troubles and problem after problem to solve.  It takes a stubborn owner to not capitulate and keep on solving problems and moving on to the inevitable next one.  

I am going to take a peek at the Greek Islands.  You never know what's around the corner.  Buy an island? Park the boat there and swim with the mermaids.  You really just never know what is around the corner!